The Andes
Spine

Cartagena's walled old city is pure magic — colonial buildings in every colour, street vendors selling arepas de huevo (COP$3,000), and salsa blasting from open doorways. Walk the walls at sunset (free), explore Getsemaní neighbourhood for street art and nightlife, and day trip to the Rosario Islands (COP$60,000–80,000 boat trip). Side trip to Minca in the Sierra Nevada (bus COP$15,000, 2 hrs) for coffee farms, waterfalls, and mountain hammock hostels at COP$30,000–40,000/night.

Fly from Cartagena to Medellín (COP$80,000–150,000 on Viva Air). The city of eternal spring has reinvented itself — take the free walking tour through Comuna 13 (must-do), ride the cable car to Parque Arví (COP$6,300), and eat bandeja paisa (COP$15,000–20,000). Bus to Salento (COP$35,000, 6 hrs) for the Cocora Valley hike — the world's tallest palm trees in a misty Andean valley (free). Coffee farm tours: COP$25,000–40,000. Fly or bus to Bogotá — the Gold Museum (free Sundays), Monserrate hill (funicular COP$23,000), and the food scene in Usaquén.

Fly from Bogotá to Quito ($80–150). Quito's old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — the Basílica del Voto Nacional ($2 to climb the towers) has the best views. Take the TelefériQo cable car ($8.50) up to 4,100m on Volcán Pichincha. Day trip to Otavalo indigenous market (bus $2.50, 2 hrs) — the biggest in South America. The equator line at Mitad del Mundo ($5) is a tourist trap but fun. If budget allows, the Galápagos ($1,000–1,500 for 5 days budget — expensive but life-changing). Otherwise, head to Baños for adventure sports and the Ruta de las Cascadas bike ride ($5 rental).

Fly from Quito/Guayaquil to Lima ($100–180). Lima is the gastronomic capital of South America — ceviche in Surquillo market (S/15–20), street food in Miraflores, and if you splurge once, try a S/45–60 menú at one of the world's top restaurants (Central, Maido). Explore Barranco's street art and Lima's colonial centre (free walking tour). Fly to Cusco (S/80–200 on Sky/JetSMART). Spend 2 days acclimatising to 3,400m — coca tea helps. Explore the Inca sites: Sacsayhuamán (Boleto Turístico S/130 covers 16 sites), San Pedro Market for fresh juices (S/5), and the chocolate museum.

Colectivo from Cusco to Ollantaytambo (S/10, 1.5 hrs). The Sacred Valley has Inca ruins without the Cusco crowds — Pisac ruins and market, Moray terraces, and Maras salt mines (S/15). For Machu Picchu, the budget route: train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (PeruRail Expedition S/220–300 return) or the 2-day Salkantay Trek ($180–250 all-inclusive, a cheaper alternative to the classic Inca Trail at $650+). Machu Picchu entry: S/152 + Huayna Picchu S/200 extra. Arrive at opening (6am) for the iconic mist-clearing moment.

Bus from Cusco to Puno (S/30–60, 6–7 hrs or luxury Cruz del Sur S/120). Lake Titicaca is the world's highest navigable lake at 3,812m. Visit the floating Uros Islands (S/5 boat, S/5 entry) and stay overnight on Amantaní or Taquile (S/30 including meals). Cross the border at Desaguadero to Bolivia. La Paz is chaotic and electrifying — ride the teleférico cable car system (Bs3/$0.44 per ride, 10 lines), explore the Witches' Market, and mountain bike the Death Road (Bs350–500/$50–72, including transport and gear). Bus to Uyuni (Bs80–120, 12 hrs overnight) for the 3-day salt flat tour ($150–200 all-inclusive) — the Salar de Uyuni at sunrise is one of the most surreal landscapes on Earth.

From Uyuni, many salt flat tours end in San Pedro de Atacama (arrange at booking). The Atacama is the driest desert on Earth — Valle de la Luna sunset (CLP$3,000), geyser field at El Tatio (CLP$15,000, depart 4am), and stargazing tours (CLP$20,000–30,000 — the clearest skies in the world). The altitude here is 2,400m so you're acclimatised from Bolivia. Fly to Santiago (CLP$20,000–50,000 on SKY/JetSMART). Explore the Mercado Central for seafood (CLP$5,000–8,000 for a massive plate), climb Cerro San Cristóbal (free, or funicular CLP$3,000), and bar-hop Barrio Bellavista.

Bus from Santiago to Valparaíso (CLP$3,000–5,000, 1.5 hrs). Valpo is Chile's street art capital — the cerros (hills) are an open-air gallery. Ride the historic ascensores (funicular lifts, CLP$300), eat chorrillana (a mountain of fries, cheese, eggs, and beef, CLP$6,000 shared), and catch live music in Cerro Alegre. Then cross the Andes to Mendoza, Argentina (bus CLP$15,000–25,000, 7 hrs through stunning mountain passes). Mendoza is wine country — rent a bike and self-guide through Maipú bodegas (tastings AR$3,000–5,000). A full asado with Malbec: AR$8,000–12,000.

Fly from Mendoza to Buenos Aires (AR$15,000–30,000). BA is one of the world's great cities — free tango shows in San Telmo on Sundays, the best steak you'll ever eat at a parrilla (AR$8,000–12,000 for a massive bife de chorizo), and all-night milongas (tango dancehalls, AR$2,000–5,000 entry). Explore La Boca, Recoleta Cemetery (free), and the bookshops of Palermo. For Patagonia: fly to El Calafate (AR$25,000–50,000) for the Perito Moreno Glacier (AR$15,000 park entry — watching bus-sized chunks of ice calve into the lake is unforgettable). If time allows, El Chaltén for free hiking to Laguna de los Tres.