Jerash
The best-preserved Roman city outside Italy — colonnaded streets, oval plazas, and 2,000-year-old acoustics that still carry a whisper.
1 day in Jerash
Only got 24 hours? Here's how to experience the best of Jerash in a single action-packed day.
Jerash in One Day
The Roman City — South Section
Enter through Hadrian's Arch — a 13m-high triumphal gate built in 129 AD for Emperor Hadrian's visit. Walk through the Hippodrome (where chariot races were held for 15,000 spectators) to the Oval Plaza — a unique oval-shaped forum surrounded by 56 Ionic columns. The sense of scale hits you here. Continue up the Cardo Maximus — the colonnaded main street with original chariot ruts still visible in the stone. Entry is JOD 10 (free with Jordan Pass).
Temples, Theatres & North Section
Climb to the Temple of Artemis — the patron goddess of Jerash. The remaining columns are massive (12m tall), and a famous wobbling column visibly sways in the wind. The South Theatre (3,000 seats, still used for concerts) has remarkable acoustics — stand at the centre mark and whisper; it carries to every seat. Continue north to the less-visited North Theatre and the ruins of the Byzantine churches with mosaic floors.
Modern Jerash & Return to Amman
Exit the ruins and explore the modern town across the road. The old souq has shops, juice stands, and falafel places. A plate of falafel, hummus, and bread costs JOD 1–2. If returning to Amman (1 hour by car or minibus), the sunset drive through the rolling hills of northern Jordan is beautiful.
3 days in Jerash
A carefully curated route mixing iconic landmarks, hidden gems, street food, culture, and adventure — designed for younger travelers.
Jerash Ruins — Full Exploration
Hadrian's Arch to the Oval Plaza
Enter at 8am through Hadrian's Arch — a 13m-high triumphal gate built in 129 AD. Walk through the Hippodrome where chariot races entertained 15,000 spectators, past the remains of the city walls. The Oval Plaza (Forum) stops you in your tracks — a vast elliptical space ringed by 56 Ionic columns, unlike any other Roman forum. The Cardo Maximus stretches north — a colonnaded boulevard with original chariot ruts in the stone.
Temples & Theatres
Climb to the Temple of Zeus (2nd century AD) for panoramic views over the entire site. Then the Temple of Artemis — a massive complex with 12m columns and the famous wobbling pillar that visibly sways. The South Theatre seats 3,000 and has extraordinary acoustics — whisper at the centre mark and it carries to the back row. The North Theatre is smaller but less crowded.
Byzantine Churches & Sunset
Explore the less-visited northern section — multiple Byzantine churches (5th–7th century) with partially intact mosaic floors depicting animals, seasons, and geometric patterns. The Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian has the best mosaics. Stay until closing time for sunset light on the columns — the warm glow transforms the stone from white to gold.
Ajloun Castle & Northern Jordan
Ajloun Castle
Drive 25 minutes west to Ajloun Castle (Qal'at ar-Rabad, JOD 3 or free with Jordan Pass) — a 12th-century Islamic fortress built by Saladin's generals to counter Crusader expansion. The castle sits atop a hill with commanding views of the Jordan Valley, and on clear days you can see the West Bank, the Sea of Galilee, and even Mount Hermon. Explore the dark passages, towers, and the small museum.
Ajloun Forest Reserve
Continue to Ajloun Forest Reserve (RSCN, JOD 7) — one of the last remaining Mediterranean-type forests in the Middle East. Walk the 2km Roe Deer Trail through ancient oak, pistachio, and strawberry trees. The reserve protects roe deer, wild boar, and rare orchids. If staying overnight, the RSCN cabins (JOD 60–80) are excellent and proceeds support conservation.
Dinner in Jerash Town
Return to Jerash for dinner. The modern town has excellent local restaurants — try mansaf (lamb in dried yogurt sauce over rice) if you haven't yet. It's Jordan's national dish and served with generous hospitality. A full meal at a local restaurant costs JOD 3–5.
Umm Qais & Jordan Valley Views
Drive to Umm Qais
Drive 1.5 hours north to Umm Qais (ancient Gadara, JOD 3 or free with Jordan Pass) — a Greco-Roman city perched on a hilltop overlooking the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights, and the Yarmouk River gorge. The black basalt ruins include a theatre, colonnaded street, and Ottoman-era village built among the columns. One of the most dramatic settings of any archaeological site in the region.
Umm Qais Exploration & Lunch
Explore the ruins — the West Theatre, the Decumanus Maximus, and the underground mausoleum. The site museum in a restored Ottoman building has Hellenistic and Roman artefacts. Lunch at the Umm Qais Resthouse terrace — arguably the best restaurant view in Jordan, overlooking the Sea of Galilee. Fresh hummus, grilled meats, and Arabic salads for JOD 8–12.
Return via Jordan Valley
Drive back via the Jordan Valley road — the lowest road in the world, dropping to 400m below sea level. The landscape shifts from green hills to arid desert as you descend. Return to Jerash or continue to Amman. If heading to Amman, the drive is 1.5 hours via the Amman–Jerash highway.
7 days in Jerash
A full week to go deep — from famous landmarks to local neighbourhoods, day trips, hidden gems, and proper local immersion.
Arrive & Explore Jerash Ruins
Hadrian's Arch & South Section
Arrive in Jerash (1 hour from Amman). Enter the ruins through Hadrian's Arch (129 AD), walk through the Hippodrome, and marvel at the Oval Plaza — a unique elliptical forum ringed by 56 columns. The Cardo Maximus stretches north with chariot ruts still visible.
Temples & Theatres
Temple of Zeus for panoramic views, Temple of Artemis with its wobbling column, and the South Theatre with extraordinary acoustics. The North Theatre is smaller but less crowded.
Byzantine Churches & Sunset
The northern churches have partially intact mosaic floors. Stay until closing for golden sunset light on the columns. Dinner in town — falafel and hummus for JOD 1–2.
Second Ruins Visit & Details
Return for Details
Re-enter the ruins (ticket valid for same day only — buy a second day if needed, or use Jordan Pass for unlimited visits). Focus on the details you missed: carved lintels, inscription stones, the Nymphaeum (ornamental fountain), and the tetrapylon intersection markers.
Jerash Archaeological Museum
The on-site museum (inside the ruins, no extra charge) has finds from excavations — sarcophagi, coins, pottery, jewellery, and a collection of oil lamps. The explanatory panels provide context that enriches the ruins visit. Then explore the eastern side of the site — less excavated but atmospheric.
Modern Jerash Souq
Explore modern Jerash's old souq — fruit and vegetable vendors, spice shops, and local sweet shops selling kunafa (cheese pastry soaked in syrup). Walk the residential streets for a glimpse of everyday Jordanian life.
Ajloun Castle & Forest
Ajloun Castle
Drive 25 minutes to Ajloun Castle (JOD 3, free with Jordan Pass) — a 12th-century Ayyubid fortress built to counter Crusader expansion. Views to the Jordan Valley and beyond. Explore the dark passages, towers, and museum.
Ajloun Forest Reserve
Walk the trails at Ajloun Forest Reserve (JOD 7) — ancient oak and pistachio forest, one of the last in the Middle East. The Soap House sells handmade olive oil products supporting local women.
Return to Jerash
Drive back for dinner. Try mansaf — Jordan's national dish of lamb in yogurt sauce over rice. Full meals at local restaurants for JOD 3–5.
Umm Qais — Three Countries View
Drive to Umm Qais
Drive 1.5 hours north to Umm Qais (ancient Gadara, free with Jordan Pass). Greco-Roman ruins on a hilltop overlooking the Sea of Galilee, Golan Heights, and Yarmouk gorge. Black basalt theatre, colonnaded street, and Ottoman village among the columns.
Exploration & Terrace Lunch
Explore the ruins, museum, and underground tombs. Lunch at Umm Qais Resthouse — the best restaurant view in Jordan, overlooking the Sea of Galilee. Hummus, grilled meats, and salads for JOD 8–12.
Return via Jordan Valley
Return via the Jordan Valley road — the lowest in the world. The landscape shifts from green hills to desert as you descend 400m below sea level. Back to Jerash by evening.
Amman Day Trip
Amman Citadel
Drive to Amman (1 hour). Start at the Citadel (Jabal al-Qala'a, JOD 3 or free with Jordan Pass) — the Temple of Hercules, Umayyad Palace, and the Jordan Archaeological Museum. The views over downtown Amman from the Citadel walls are excellent.
Downtown Amman & Roman Theatre
Walk down to the Roman Theatre (2nd century, 6,000 seats, JOD 2 or free with Jordan Pass). Explore downtown — the Al Husseini Mosque area, Habibah for fresh kunafa (JOD 0.5), and the vegetable souq. Lunch at Hashem Restaurant — the most famous falafel in Jordan (JOD 2–3 for a feast).
Rainbow Street & Return
Walk up to Rainbow Street — Amman's hippest strip with cafes, bookshops, and street art. Grab a juice at one of the rooftop cafes overlooking downtown. Return to Jerash (1 hour).
Pella & Northern Highlands
Pella (Tabaqat Fahl)
Drive 45 minutes northwest to Pella (free with Jordan Pass) — one of the oldest continuously inhabited sites in the world, with 6,000+ years of settlement layers from the Neolithic to the Mamluk period. The ruins are spread across a hillside overlooking the Jordan Valley with views to the West Bank.
Northern Highland Villages
Drive through the green northern highlands — olive groves, fig orchards, and stone villages. Stop in Irbid for lunch at a local restaurant. The region is Jordan's breadbasket and feels very different from the desert south.
Return to Jerash
Return to Jerash for a final evening. Walk past the ruins at night — they're illuminated beautifully and visible through the fence from the road. Farewell dinner at a local restaurant.
Last Visit & Departure
Final Ruins Visit
One last walk through Jerash. The morning light on the Oval Plaza and the Cardo is magical. Take your time — photograph the details you missed, sit in the South Theatre, and let the scale of this 2,000-year-old city sink in.
Souvenirs & Local Food
Pick up souvenirs — mosaic art, olive oil soap, za'atar spice mix, and Dead Sea products are all available in Jerash shops. Final lunch of mansaf or mixed grill at a local restaurant.
Departure
Drive to Queen Alia International Airport near Amman (1.5 hours) or continue south toward Petra and the rest of Jordan. Jerash is perfectly positioned as a base for exploring the north before heading south.
Budget tips
Jordan Pass
The Jordan Pass (JOD 70 for Petra 2-day) includes visa fee (JOD 40) plus entry to 40+ sites including Jerash, Ajloun, Umm Qais, and Amman Citadel. Saves JOD 30+ even without Petra.
Eat local
Falafel and hummus plates for JOD 1–2. Mansaf (national dish) at local restaurants for JOD 3–5. Kunafa (cheese pastry) from sweet shops for JOD 0.5. Jordan has excellent cheap street food.
Minibuses
Public minibuses from Amman to Jerash cost JOD 1 (vs JOD 20–25 for a taxi). Depart from Tabarbour station every 30 minutes. Journey takes 1 hour.
Free sights
Pella, Bahia Fort, and many smaller sites are free or included in Jordan Pass. Northern Jordan's highlands, olive groves, and villages cost nothing to explore.
Accommodation
Jerash has limited hotels — most travelers stay in Amman (hostels from JOD 8–12) and day trip. This is practical since the bus is cheap and frequent.
Water refills
Tap water in Jordan is generally safe but most people prefer filtered. Carry a reusable bottle — many restaurants will refill for free.
Budget breakdown
Daily costs per person in Jordanian Dinar. Northern Jordan is affordable, especially with the Jordan Pass covering most sites.
| 🎒 Budget | ✨ Mid-Range | 💎 Splurge | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation Hostel in Amman → Jerash hotel → boutique guesthouse | JOD 8–15 | JOD 25–50 | JOD 80+ |
| Food Street food & falafel → restaurant meals → fine dining | JOD 5–8 | JOD 12–20 | JOD 30+ |
| Transport Public minibus → shared taxi → private driver | JOD 2–5 | JOD 10–20 | JOD 35+ |
| Activities Jordan Pass sites → guided tours → private archaeology tour | JOD 0–5 | JOD 10–15 | JOD 25+ |
| Daily Total $21–46 → $80–148 → $239+ | JOD 15–33 | JOD 57–105 | JOD 170+ |
Practical info
Getting There
- Jerash is 50km north of Amman (1 hour by car). Public minibuses from Amman's Tabarbour station every 30 minutes (JOD 1)
- Most visitors use Jerash as a day trip from Amman, but staying overnight gives you sunrise access to the ruins
- Queen Alia International Airport is 1.5 hours south. Rental cars are available at the airport from JOD 20/day
Health & Safety
- No vaccinations required. Tap water is safe but bottled is cheap and widely available
- Jordan is very safe for travelers. Jordanians are famously friendly and helpful to visitors
- Main risk is heat — the ruins have minimal shade. Carry water, wear a hat, and use sunscreen
Getting Around
- Jerash town is walkable — the ruins, modern souq, and restaurants are within 15 minutes on foot
- For Ajloun and Umm Qais, you need a car or arranged taxi. Public transport exists but is infrequent
- Rent a car in Amman for maximum flexibility in northern Jordan. Roads are good and well-signed
Connectivity
- Tourist SIM: Zain or Orange, JOD 5–10 for 10GB. Available at Queen Alia airport
- WiFi at most hotels and restaurants. Signal is good throughout northern Jordan
- Download offline maps for remote areas like Pella and the Jordan Valley road
Money
- Jordanian Dinar is pegged near the USD (1 JOD ≈ 1.41 USD). It's a high-value currency — don't confuse dinars with dollars
- Cards accepted at hotels and larger restaurants. Cash essential for minibuses, street food, and small shops
- ATMs available in Jerash centre and Amman. Carry cash for day trips to remote sites
Packing Tips
- Comfortable walking shoes — the ruins cover a large area with uneven stone surfaces
- Sun protection is essential: hat, sunscreen SPF 50+, sunglasses. There's very little shade at the ruins
- Modest clothing (cover shoulders and knees) for visiting mosques and out of respect in smaller towns
Cultural tips
Jordanians are among the most welcoming people in the Middle East. Respect local customs and you'll be treated like family.
Respect
Jordan is a moderate Muslim country. Dress modestly in public (cover shoulders and knees). Alcohol is available in restaurants and hotels but avoid drinking visibly in the street.
Hospitality
Jordanians are incredibly hospitable — you'll be invited for tea, coffee, and meals. Accepting is a sign of respect and the connection is genuine. Refusing multiple times is the polite way to decline.
Photography
Ask before photographing people, especially women and children. Ruins and landscapes are fair game. Military and government buildings should never be photographed.
Tea & Coffee
Arabic coffee (qahwa) is served bitter and strong in small cups. Turkish-style coffee with cardamom is common. Tea (chai) is sweet and served constantly. Accepting tea is the Jordanian handshake.
Tipping
Tipping is appreciated but not obligatory. 10% at restaurants, JOD 1–2 for tour guides, small change for porters. Taxi drivers don't expect tips but rounding up is polite.
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